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Old June 30th, 2013   #1
Mick
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Default Farkling Rampage - power outlets, voltmeter, switched power source, etc.

Been busy the last couple of weeks FINALLY adding all the farkles I've been meaning to add for months but haven't been able to for one reason or another.

Non electrical items installed included a Givi top box mounting plate, Throttlemeisters, Helmet Guardian, and a Ram ball on my BLM Dash Shelf. Throttlemeister installation was pretty straight forward & easy by following the directions. The Givi mounting plate can be a bit of a PITA if you've never done it before. This is my 4th Givi installation so I was use to dealing with the cryptic instructions. Ram ball mounting just simply involved drilling holes to bolt it down.

I put velcro on the top and bottom of my BLM shelf while leaving room to hard mount the Ram Ball. You'll note that the voltmeter is affixed using velcro. It is further secured using a velcro strap beneath it. I used this method on my ST1100, put many of thousands of miles on it and never had a problem. I really like that I don't have to look down to see the VM.

NOTE: In all cases I put the "hook" part of the velcro on the bike and the fuzzy, loop part on the items that were going to be attached. May not make a difference but it just seemed that the fuzzy, loop part would need replacing more often:


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Another pic showing how I utilized the velcro. I used this system on my ST1100 and the velcro held the V-1 & Spot quite well. Never a problem through many thousands of miles:



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For the electrical farkles that I added, I needed a switched power source plus a few other things. Here's the core of the power system. Got these parts from my local auto parts store and radio shack:



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On my ST1100 I had the fuse panel in the fairing pocket, the relay velcroed to the battery, and the ground strip somewhere under the seat. On the 1300, I found a much better (not to mention dryer) place to put these items; the tail. After much study I put velcro on the ABS Control Unit for the relay and fuse panel. One of the things I like about this location is that I can still keep my tool pouch (you can see the top of the pouch just below the dark pink colored plug):



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The velcro for the ground strip went behind seat latch:



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This shows everything all velcroed in place. Not shown is a Kissan brake light flasher that I hooked to the Givi brake light circuit:



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In order for the relay to work properly, it has to be hooked to a switched power source. I chose a wire that came out of the main fuse box on the left side of the bike (tested it with voltmeter 1st to be sure it was off when ignition turned off & on when the key was switched on). The first picture below shows the fuse box detached and pulled out. The second shows the red tap on this wire:



Notice where wire is tapped to supply switched power to relay (red tap). Got this from a tip on ST-O:



If you've never dealt with general purpose relays before, they all seem to have a very convenient numbering scheme on the terminals that allow you to hook them up properly. Below is a really great chart that I found on http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/hornrelay.html . I've also seen this same chart on other sites:




After I had everything in place, I then ran wires to everything that needed juice... 3 powerlet sockets, voltmeter, and brake lights for my Givi Trunk. In addition, I hooked up a Kissan tail flasher to the Givi brake light circuit:



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As to the wire routing, where possible I tried to protect the insulation on the positive leads from the enigne heat by running them through plastic webbing (shown in pic below). In some cases I also used lengths of heat shrink tubing. The wires shown below are for the left hand powerlet socket:



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Here's a glimpse of how I routed the wires (red & greeen) around all the obstacles along the rear, left side of the bike. You just have to keep probing until you find a route where your wires aren't in a position to be pinched, cut, mashed, burned, etc. and don't interfere with anything. Don't skimp on the zip ties:



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One final note on wiring. I used 12 gauge wire from the battery to the relay. I also used 12 gauge wire from the fuse panel to the left side powerlet socket dedicated for use with my air pump and heated clothing. The other side was actually a pre-wired powerlet that came from Honda and I didn't change it. For the voltmeter I used 18 or 20 gauge wire.

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EDIT - 1/11/2015
Had a question asked about right side & riser block socket wire routing so thought I'd add some more pictures:

















Left side to riser block Powerlet socket:






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Now, here's a pic showing the Helmet Guardian:



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Unfortunately, the stock Helmet Guardian's holes will not work for this mounting location so I had to drill holes, sand off the rough edges & touch up with generic gloss black paint:



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I got the idea for the mounting location of the Helmet Guardian on ST-O. It requires that different sized bolts be used in the rear of Givi plate. I also had to make spacers from steel tubing stock purchased from Lowe's. Below shows some of the detail:



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Here's a pic of the packaging of the 70 mm bolts so you'll know exactly what I used:



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Last but not least, I christened it with an old, leftover STOC Sticker from long ago. It was the only one I had left and I had to trim it a little to get it to fit on the 1300:



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I then gave her a bath, put a little Blue Magic to the mufflers, and took a picture while it was still clean. She's now ready for transcontinental travel. It's been a long road getting her to this point:

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Last edited by Mick; January 11th, 2015 at 08:20 AM.
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Old June 30th, 2013   #2
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Default Re: Farkling Rampage - power outlets, voltmeter, switched power source, etc.

Wow!! Ready to the end of the world. Nice job!! Congratulations.

Saludos and V's on the road!!
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Old June 30th, 2013   #3
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Default Re: Farkling Rampage - power outlets, voltmeter, switched power source, etc.

Nicely done.
Think Posi-Tap for tapping into wires.
http://www.posi-lock.com/

Paul
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Old June 30th, 2013   #4
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Default Re: Farkling Rampage - power outlets, voltmeter, switched power source, etc.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulRB View Post
Nicely done.
Think Posi-Tap for tapping into wires.
http://www.posi-lock.com/
I actually looked for those. Found one place here in town (NAPA) that USE to carry them but no more.
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Old June 30th, 2013   #5
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Default

You've been busy for sure ! Looks good !

SPAM message sent from my P.O.S. HTC EVO using Tapatalk 2
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Old June 30th, 2013   #6
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Default Re: Farkling Rampage - power outlets, voltmeter, switched power source, etc.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulRB View Post
Nicely done.
Think Posi-Tap for tapping into wires.
http://www.posi-lock.com/

Paul
What he said, about the Posi products.
I buy direct, in quantity.

Check out their website for the great products that they have and toss
those clamshell connectors, (AKA wire cutters and short creators).

I like to use the Posi fuse holder for AT fuses, too.
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Old June 30th, 2013   #7
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Default Re: Farkling Rampage - power outlets, voltmeter, switched power source, etc.

Excellent stuff, very good pics and explanations. I was so ashamed of the crappy (but safe) installation I did recently with my driving lights that I took no pics at all.
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Old July 3rd, 2013   #8
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Default Re: Farkling Rampage - power outlets, voltmeter, switched power source, etc.

Great job, thanks for posting. Inspires me to maybe record my farkiling process for the befnefit of others.
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Old July 3rd, 2013   #9
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Default Re: Farkling Rampage - power outlets, voltmeter, switched power source, etc.

Quote:
Originally Posted by maura View Post
Great job, thanks for posting. Inspires me to maybe record my farkiling process for the befnefit of others.
Please do, for all our benefit.
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Old July 3rd, 2013   #10
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Default Re: Farkling Rampage - power outlets, voltmeter, switched power source, etc.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ligito View Post
Please do, for all our benefit.
So kind of you to not correct my spelling! I pledge to document.
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