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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #11
Coltabilly
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Default Re: Final Drive

So, I got the drive shaft separated from final drive and greased the ends. The trans side female fitting fell down and was very hard to align the drive shaft with the final drive assembly attached. So I separated it from the final drive again and put the drive shaft in first, then pushed the final drive back on. Is there a better way?
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #12
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Default Re: Final Drive

Quote:
Originally Posted by chaissos View Post
just be sure to use the correct oil, in every circumstance.
Would that be Peanut Oil, Canola Oil, or Vegetable Oil? Can I substitute Crisco? How about Hog Lard?


Given the tiny amount of oil in the final drive and the ease of changing it I often wonder why this question pops up so often on the forums.

I use the "every other oil change" schedule for my final drive(s). If I really think about it the ST1300 oil change interval says 8K miles and my FJR says 4K miles. In theory I would have been changing that final drive oil twice as often with my FJR. Of course I never went 8K between oil changes on the Honda.

As a side thought, Yamaha doesn't grease the drive shaft splines on the FJR but most of the FJR owners use the Honda Moly paste on those splines at the first opportunity.
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #13
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Default Re: Final Drive

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coltabilly View Post
So, I got the drive shaft separated from final drive and greased the ends. The trans side female fitting fell down and was very hard to align the drive shaft with the final drive assembly attached. So I separated it from the final drive again and put the drive shaft in first, then pushed the final drive back on. Is there a better way?
When that happened to me, it took two of us and some trickery, to get it lined up again. IS there a better method?
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #14
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Default Re: Final Drive

A better way - No.

If you understand what has happened there is another way but by no means "better".

The front end on the drive shaft is connected to the U-Joint which is connected to the output shaft sticking out of the rear engine case.
What has happened is the drive shaft has ended up at rest so to speak in the exact spot where is is free to move up and down freely, a quarter turn of the output shaft would but the u-joint in it's side to side freely position and your chances of hitting it directly greatly enhanced.

The bottom line.
It a hit or miss operation that requires tremendous luck to hit right.
No skill involved strictly LUCK.

I do not recommend "another way".
It requires removal of a host of bits, pieces, parts and such.
Don't screw with the U-Joint boot unless you have another in-hand and the special tools required to remove and reinstall the swingarm.
Don't even screw with the swingarm unless you are well versed in WTF.

It can be done with the drive shaft in the rear gear case.
It's not easy, the dam thing weighs in at just under the weight of a skinned Water Buffalo and it will require you to twist and turn the drive case while exerting minimum pressure on the shaft end at the u-joint.
You need to twist and shout the drive shaft until the splines line up the GENTLY pull it backward till the studs line up with the holes in the swingarm.
Anti-Seize those studs before you twist and shout.
You will be trying to line up a u-joint remember and that will require both up and down and side to side movement.
If it was easy anyone could do it.
It is not easy.
Constant profanity does not seem to have any effect one way or the other on ease. I've tried both.


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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #15
Coltabilly
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Default Re: Final Drive

Thanks again Paul. I totally agree, profanity definitely helps!
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