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Old October 2nd, 2008   #1
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Default Installing Fuel Pressure Regulator

Message 1 of 31 in Discussion From: NickLSCross (Original Message)Sent: 5/10/2006 7:12 AMDoes anyone know the link for the install guide for Turbo City's Fuel Pressure Regulator for the ST1300? I recall that there was an excellent description on this site, with photos. Will my MCL risers interfere with the fuel tank when I pivot it up? It looks awful close.
Nick C

Message 2 of 31 in Discussion From: JengirlcSent: 5/10/2006 8:08 AMNick,
Here's the link to Turbo City's site. There is a PDF file on this page with instructions.

Steve d2f72de406632ec27c2199

Message 3 of 31 in Discussion From: NickLSCrossSent: 5/10/2006 9:03 AMThanks, Steve,
For some reason the Trurbo City pdf file does not open. That's why I'm trying to locate the instructions that were on this site.
NIck C

Message 4 of 31 in Discussion From: JengirlcSent: 5/10/2006 11:17 AMI downloaded the file and was able to open it. Let me know if you want me to email the file to you...


Message 5 of 31 in Discussion From: NickLSCrossSent: 5/11/2006 6:45 AMThanks Steve, I was able to install the FPR in about two and a half hours. Perhaps my experience will be useful for other unskilled mechanics. The installation guide from Turbo City is essential.
1. I never did figure out how to disconnect the air temperature sensor and I did not want to risk snapping some plastic part. In the end I taped the upper air cleaner housing to the underside of the tank where it presented no problems for the rest of the job.
2. I used a magnetic ratchet screwdriver from Sears. It was by far the most useful tool. It was easy to operate in confined spaces and I did not drop any screws into the tupperware.
3. I've read that many people had problems removing the throttle body adaptor screws, so I bought an impact driver. In fact only one screw gave me any difficulty and the impact driver solved that problem with two taps of the hammer.
4. The nut holding the fuel pressure regulator is bigger than the largest wrench in my set. You may want to take the new FPR to the tool shop and get the appropriate sized wrench before you start the job. The instructions do not specify the size. I used an adjustable wrench against my better judgement but to no ill effect.
5. The fuel line connection to the FPR was the biggest pain in the ass. I was working in a limited space and I had a real hard time with the spring clip. In the end I prised the pipe off with a flat blade of a screwdriver. The same problem faced me when I reinstalled. However, I found that it was much easier to reinstall the pipe first and THEN install the new FPR on the rail. I took the opportunity to zero the throttle cable adjustment on the brake lever and take up the slack at the carb.
6. Reassembly was a snap. Note that the rubber air tubes have a marker on the outer rim that lines up with markers on the plastic of the lower aircleaner housing. I missed this and had to reinstall half of them Be careful not to trap a retainer under a screw when tightening...
7. For some reason I had a hard time reinstalling one of the fuel tank hold down bolts. The tank did not want to shift forward far enough and the bolt would not line up with the hole. Brute force and ignorance finally triumphed.
So was it worth it? I took a 20 minute ride to get gas when the job was complete and the throttle response is much smoother. I used to have to control the snatch on take-off with the clutch, now it's gone. Power is unchanged and fuel consumption was 41.2 in light urban traffic. I'm very pleased.
NIck C

Message 6 of 31 in Discussion From: sbixbySent: 5/11/2006 11:40 AMI can add some comments to Nick's:

re #1: The MAP sensor connector has a lock tang on it; just press the lock tang (top of the connector, I think?) while pulling and it should come clear easily enough.

re: #3: This has bedeviled me in the past - I ended up drilling out two of them, a scary proposition considering metal-shavings and throttle-openings are mutually exclusive entities. So, once you get them out, be relatively gentle putting them back in again, for next time. I used literally finger-tip torque to tighten them down, and even with that, they give off an audible POP next time around. The drilling-out was required after the first time I torqued them down with a healthy twist of the wrist. oops!

re: #7: This has *always* been that way for mine. I give the tank a healthy shove from the back to seat it as well as I can, then I lift the tank at the front while getting the bolts started; all the while pushing on the back of the tank. So, I doubt yours is different than most others and I woudln't worry too much about it.

Glad the new FPR works well for you, I like mine also.

Message 7 of 31 in Discussion From: AdamKarskiSent: 5/11/2006 3:37 PMPics here:

Message 8 of 31 in Discussion From: barko1Sent: 3/4/2008 6:20 PMOld thread but I just finished the FPR install. Did a throttle body synch at the same time.Getting the vacuum lines off and hooked to my mercury gauges was a pain, needed some adaptors, and also needed to block those par valves, I just took them out taped over and reinstalled, worked fine. Only thing I haven't solved is getting the FI error light to go out, will have to try and jump the connector again.

This was a pain but worth every bit. I have only driven to work and back, 25 miles but there is an excellent improvement. Not snatchy, I can pick up the throttle at 2000 rpm smoothly, didn't like that before. No up and down idle, it was getting to be a pain, killed it a couple times, actually it really had just died, dropped to 500, now steady. The bike is smoother and I am happier, for me it's great. Hard to believe that a little more fuel pressure helps out so much.

Message 9 of 31 in Discussion From: JoeZulaskiSent: 3/7/2008 8:17 PMPiece of cake compared to the HID install.

Started at 7pm tonight and buttoned it up at about 8:05pm.

Of course, I've done this type of thing a few times before too (like when we did the electronic cruise control clinic, etc.).

I'll be testing it tomorrow morning early. I can hardly wait to feel the difference.

Joe Zulaski

Message 10 of 31 in Discussion From: billp117Sent: 3/7/2008 9:30 PMLet us know how your test ride goes Joe...I still have mine to do and a throttle body sync.

Message 11 of 31 in Discussion From: ralphn0Sent: 3/7/2008 9:43 PMJoe,
Is the Fuel Pressure Regulator an optional device or did you have a defective regulator?


Message 12 of 31 in Discussion From: kurbsterSent: 3/7/2008 11:47 PM I have noticed that my ST has a much more pronounced fast idle during
warm up. Not a complaint.....just an oberservation. Love my FPR....

Kirby Martin
Dallas, Texas
2003 ST1300a


Message 13 of 31 in Discussion From: JoeZulaskiSent: 3/8/2008 7:14 AMHowdy Ralph,

It was totally optional. The TurboCity Regulator reportedly smooths out the throttle response - which is one of the pet peeves for some ST owners.

I still need to do a throttle body sync too, Bill.


Message 14 of 31 in Discussion From: JoeZulaskiSent: 3/8/2008 4:04 PMWow, what a difference!

The bike is so smooooooth now. The abrupt on/off throttle response that I had to combat using the friction zone of the clutch is totally gone now.

I should have done this FPR replacement a long time ago.

Thanks for the tip, guys.

Joe Zulaski

Message 15 of 31 in Discussion From: billp117Sent: 3/8/2008 5:31 PMMy issue is a slight hesitation when running down the road (kind a like it was trying to run lean). Turbo City Tom shipped me an FPR labeled "60" because I have a stock air cleaner and Stayintune pipes. They said it would fix the problem. Now to get the time to do the installation of the FPR and the TB sync.

Thanks for the report Joe.

Bill Pratt

Message 16 of 31 in Discussion From: SVTravellerSent: 3/8/2008 6:05 PMJoe;
Did that last summer and it worked well but when I probed the exhaust at my brothers we saw a slight over rich condition ... so we checked sync but it was spot on ... then added the air cleaner conversion kit and it straightened right out ... no additional power but it was just enough to allow the programmed FI curve to work pefectly ... the result was no more power but more responsive at roll on from Idle/low speed step to mid range ... not neccessary but further refines what I consider one of the finest engines on the market
Rod Martin

Message 17 of 31 in Discussion From: JoeZulaskiSent: 3/9/2008 10:42 AMHi Rod,

What does the Air Cleaner Conversion kit do - does it allow more air in?



Message 18 of 31 in Discussion From: SVTravellerSent: 3/9/2008 12:44 PMJoe;
It open up the top of the air box and the top of the air cleaner while still isolating the air flow.
Results in ~ 35-40% more airflow and lets the TB demand air without restriction. I was a little worried about water infiltration but have ridden through a couple of those winter drenchers we have had this winter in Seattle ... no problems so far. Like I said nothing extraordinary just smoother response from low end.

matches with an already modified recharable filter element or you can carve your own ... works the same way.

Message 19 of 31 in Discussion From: bellylaugh43Sent: 3/10/2008 12:19 PMIm glad to hear such good things about the TC FPR. And thanks for all the installation tips.
I've been using a fuel additive, one that is friendly to catalytic converters, to combat the poor throttle response, that TC refers to as "buck" and "chaw" (what a great description). I tried this after a trip to OR where the fuels are not "oxygenated" like in CA. It really helps. However I don;t like putting stuff in my gas, so I think I'll go witht the TC FPR.
I do have one question about the installation of the FPR: do you have to remove any plastic?
One thing I do want to mention about TC's air filter. I spoke with them and you will have to permanently modifiy your existing air box. So if you do change your mind and want to go back to stock, you'll have to buy a new box.
Thanks again,
Jeff in SF

Message 20 of 31 in Discussion From: SVTravellerSent: 3/10/2008 12:31 PMJeff;
Only the top of the airbox needs modification if you use the mod ... about $75 dollars to replace

Message 21 of 31 in Discussion From: kindofblue2008Sent: 3/12/2008 3:35 PMAdam,
When I tried your link it came up with an error msg. I added a www. to the url and that didn't work either. Any thoughts?

Pics here:

Message 22 of 31 in Discussion From: JoeZulaskiSent: 3/13/2008 6:52 AMBelly,

The only plastic you have to remove is the air box itself.

Basically, you do the following:

1. Lift the gas tank and prop it up.
2. Open the air box by removing top.
3. Remove air snorkles and coverter pieces.
4. Unbolt the bottom of the air box and remove.
5. Be very careful not to drop anything down into the cylinders. Most cover.
6. Remove and replace Fuel Regulator. Best done with an empty fuel tank.
7. Button back up in reverse order.

Of course, there are a few more details than that but, those are the basic steps. I did mine in an hour but, that's because I've torn it down a few times before.

Note: You may need an impact screw driver to break loose the bolts/screws holding the snorkle converters. I didn't need one after all but had it on hand just in case.


Joe Zulaski

Message 23 of 31 in Discussion From: bellylaugh43Sent: 3/14/2008 12:09 PMJoe, thanks for the step-by-step breakdown. It sounds like it may be a good time to install the air box from TC and maybe even buying their filter.

Thanks again,
Jeff in SF

Message 24 of 31 in Discussion From: kindofblue2008Sent: 3/16/2008 9:00 AMA fellow ST rider and I went on a ride yesterday of about 170 miles. He'd just installed TT's FPR and he got 49mpg. I got 42 mpg over the same course and same speed. (We're here in NM at 6,000+ elevation.)

Looks like I need to get an order in for a TT FPR.
Message 25 of 31 in Discussion From: AdamKarskiSent: 3/17/2008 8:05 AMFYI - Have you replaced your stock thermostat yet? Even before you get to the two bar syndrome you'll start to see a dop in fuel econmy. The ECU senses the cooler running temp and adds fuel.

Message 26 of 31 in Discussion From: BikeopathSent: 4/20/2008 6:40 AMI changed my fuel pressure regulator yesterday and took it for a ride. All I can say is WOW! AMAZING change in low speed throttle control, less drive lash, better on/off throttle behavior and yes, it does idle silky smooth at 700 rpm.

Can't talk to fuel economy gains. I'll leave that for a longer test. One of the better farkles for this bike.

Tony Pepenella
STOC 522
Message 27 of 31 in Discussion From: bellylaugh43Sent: 4/30/2008 4:53 PMOkay, thanks for all the tips everybody. I installed the Fuel Pressure Regulator on Saturday and had a chance to take the bike out on Sunday. I also installed the airbox and modified filter from Turbo City as well. It took me from 8:00AM-2:00PM with a trip to Sears for an impact wrench and a short lunch break. Quite a bit longer than the average, and I didn't use any swear words or anything like that. There were no left over parts and screws when I got the bike all back together.

I highly recommend these farkles to your ST1300. You wont regret it. The bike no longer lurches when applying the throttle with the clutch all the way out. It's as smooth as a sled on snow.

Now maybe I'll get some Staintunes.

Thanks again,
Jeff in SF

Message 28 of 31 in Discussion From: jerrysc1Sent: 8/22/2008 4:48 PMI just installed the turbo city fuel pressure regulator - I was a bit hesitant to do this until someone said it was not difficult to do. I concur it took me about an hour, I don't know that it made a huge difference but I have only taken a short test ride so far. If you think you need this and are worried about installing it, the instructions are very good - I don't know that the impact wrench is necessary but it always saves a screw, buy one if you don't have one, I learned that 25 years ago when you had to take side covers off to adjust clutches and change gears - never ruined a screw after getting one.
Message 29 of 31 in Discussion From: Hwy1SG1Sent: 8/23/2008 1:38 PMNick,

Go to this link:
and then click on the PDF button about half way down the middle of the page.
I installed the FPR about two weeks ago. I'm slow and methodical. Took me 2 hours. While I had it all apart, I sync'd the starter valves and adjusted the slack out of the throttle cable. My throttle on-off is smoother and less ****y now. I've noticed better low end response and less lug down ping. The best part is, I'm getting about a 5% increase in MPG.
I ride 60 miles round trip to work each day over 2 lane, twisty, up-hill, down-hill roads. I'm happy with the mod.

Steve on Hwy1
Message 30 of 31 in Discussion From: JoeZulaskiSent: 8/26/2008 9:55 AMJeff,

If you add Staintunes, you should also get the higher pressure FPR from TurboCity.

There are 3 different FPR's depending upon what you have on your bike:

1. A Stock bike with stock exhaust and no air box mod.
2. A stock bike with stock exhaust and WITH the air box mod.
3. After market exhaust and the air box mod.

I got #1 and then added the air box mod and had to order #2 after that. TurboCity's web page didn't mention this when I was buying several months ago and only found out when I called to ask a question of their tech dept. They were really cool and sent me the #2 type of FPR free with the promise to send the old one back.

The difference is a higher pressure.


Joe Zulaski

Message 31 of 31 in Discussion From: asmithusaSent: 8/28/2008 12:28 PMRight on about there being 3 different FPR depending on the air box. I don't think it is mentioned on their website. Found it out by accident when i placed my second order via phone. It really smooth out the throttle.

Allen Smith
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Old May 30th, 2014   #2
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Question Re: Installing Fuel Pressure Regulator

Thank you each for the information re: FPR replacement...
I have another question for the "other end" of the alloy pony: you know of anyone that has modified the exhaust
(outside of changing away from the stock Mufflers)???
I have an idea that I have been tossing around inside my helmet for
a while...but was wondering if anyone else has already taken the
leap....I expect with the popularity of this incredible machine...someone
might have already gone there...
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Old May 31st, 2014   #3
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Default Re: Installing Fuel Pressure Regulator

No, not really. I've only heard of people replacing stock with aftermarket.

Why, what are you thinking of doing?
Joe Zulaski
Redmond, WA
MSF RiderCoach
STOC# 929, IBA# 218

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Old May 31st, 2014   #4
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Even an aftermarket exhaust, with much less restriction than almost any modification you could make to the stock mufflers, will not buy you any noticeable power. The main advantage to aftermarket pipes is the change in appearance, sound and weight.

STOC 025
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Old May 31st, 2014   #5
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Default Re: Installing Fuel Pressure Regulator

Thanks for the information.....on another note: do either of you
have experience with Bar Risers?....I am looking at the 3 options
offered by HeliBar.... I am 5'11" & looking to sit a little more Vertical for
long distance touring....any comments are welcome...
and on another note: while my bike has the front peg extenders...I am NOT
thrilled with them...I do like the idea of straightening my knee...but don't
care for dragging the front pegs in the corners, as they are moved slightly
forward & down....I am thinking of RE-designing them to move more REARWARD & maybe same height....(I typically will move my feet to the
passenger pegs when I want to get busy...but that limits my ability to
shift at will....have also caught my foot under the shifter in decent
left leaning turns...)...maybe I need to do a combo: shifter lever change
& front peg rearward extension in harmony...??...thanks, again!
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Old May 31st, 2014   #6
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Default Re: Installing Fuel Pressure Regulator

I have the Gen 3 Helibar risers and like them.
I upgrade from the Gen 1.
6' 2" 32 inseam-tall in the saddle.
My knees hit the fairing quite a bit.
Wouldn't want the front pegs lowered, though.
IBAN Old Fart

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